Having started with Bullseye glass, my daughter had a project for school to ‘recycle something that would normally be thrown away’ by making it into something else and I find myself diverted off towards ‘float glass’. Also, since reading in Brad Walker’s book that normal kitchen foil and drinks cans can be added as an inclusion in glass, I was just looking for an excuse to try it. So, the plan is to make a coaster with my daughter’s name in foil / drinks can cut out and sandwiched between the glass.

I visited the local glazier and asked if he had any scraps and he gave me some scrap glass for free on the promise of doughnuts :-). What a star. The scraps were 4mm thick.

So, several issues to solve/ note here:

– Fusing schedule for window glass needed (and two layers of this scrap glass will be 8mm). I have decided to use the default schedule for a float glass fuse on the KCR2 controller (preset 1) . Despite being for 4-6mm, it will be a starting point for testing.

– Violation of the 6mm rule so this glass is going to spread upon full fuse (as it will start at 8mm)

How to tell the tin side of the glass and then what to do with this fact. I used the water test and then marked the glass with a sharpie pen on the side I thought was the tin side. As the tin side can react with all sorts of things it seems right that the tin sides need to go on the outside and the other side will be on the inside of the coaster sandwiching the tin can / foil.

I decided to do a test piece, both to test if I had identified the tin side correctly, to test spread at 8mm thick, to test the effects

of both coke can and kitchen foil inclusions and to test the firing schedule. The piece I put in the kiln is as shown in the picture. I used my own glass cleaning mix to clean the glass (50% white vinegar / 50% rubbing alcohol). There are so many suggestions regarding different combinations for cleaning on the fused glass fanatics facebook group. This is the one I thought I’d try as someone had mentioned that this was suggested to them at a bullseye workshop.




The piece came out as shown. There were far more larger bubbles around the can foil, with smaller bubbles around the kitchen foil (a look I preferred). My fault that the hearts were slightly off centre. The glass had spread out as anticipated. Another thing of note is that the top layer was not flat but was raised around the hearts – thus this method could not be used where the surface needed to be flat as on a coaster. Food for thought. Pleased with how it came out and the water test for the tin side appears to have been successful.


  1. I use only two kinds of glass cleaner when preparing to fuse glass. One is acetone and the other is propanol (= iso-propyl alcohol). Each dissolves a different class of substance and I mainly use acetone. Cheapest and purest sources for these is industrial chemical suppliers (eg APC Pure in eBay) rather than glass craft sources (eg WarmGlass) or domestic supplies (eg for “Rubbing Alcohol”).

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